Writing this is mid October,
I have already noticed Christmas ads creeping into the commercial
breaks between the kids programmes. Thankfully no sound of Silent
Night in the shops as yet, but I know it won't be long.
Though the run up to Christmas
seems to get longer every year, there are a few stable traditions
that can be relied upon to fall on the same day. El Gordo, the biggest
lottery of the year and reputed to be the biggest lottery worldwide
is drawn on December 22nd. As you go about your last minute Christmas
shopping on that day, you will hear the sound of the winning numbers
being
sung
through
radio and tv broadcasts, piped into the street.
In 2006, €2,142,000,000
was distributed to the lucky holders of 180 winning number combinations.
Of these almost 20,300 won €3,000,000 each.
Towns and villages have
their own annual festivities which may take the form of a street
party or barbeque. In Las Galletas in the south, the local butcher
has for many years now been the main host by preparing a heaving
table of barbequed meats and handing out paper cups of plonk. The
roasted chestnut seller may have set up his stall a few days earlier
but will now be accompanied by a baked potato stall.
Around this time, the children
at the local school will be led through the town to post their letters
of Christmas wishes to the Three Kings. Surprise, surprise, this
event is usually another excuse for groaning tables of goodies though
this time only the kids get to enjoy the feast. The Three
Kings themselves are in attendance in all their colourful splendour
and as proud parents squeeze into the thronging kids trying to get
photographs of their beloved off-spring, fire-dancers, acrobats,
clowns or Disney characters add to the happy confusion.
It is only in recent years
that some kids in Spain might look forward to opening presents on
Christmas Day. Traditionally this would not happen until Tres Reyes
on 6th January. For many expats kids (my own included) the season
seems to be a never ending stream of presents and parties as skint
parents try to pay respect to both cultural traditions.
On Christmas Day itself
many local and expat residents might make the trip up to Teide for
a romp in the snow. Traditionally this day is not such a big celebration
with rabbit being a more usual dish than turkey though expat residents
may enjoy both a chmpagen breakfast at one of the local bars followed
by a family dinner or a meal out with friends. For tourists
the
hotels
have always
laid
on
huge
Christmas
buffets
and banquets with special entertainment.
El Dia de Los Santos
Inocentes,
the Day of the Innocent Saints, follows next in the Christmas line-up.
Spain's answer to April Fool's Day, you can expect pranks and jokes
to be played on the unsuspecting. The origins of this day are actually
bloodier than you might imagine given it's playful nature. It is
a commemoration of the children murdered by King Herod.
On New Year's Eve the
only place to be is in front of the local church in whatever resort
or
village you are staying in. Across Tenerife, locals, expat residents
and tourists alike will participate Los Doce Uvas de La Suerte
(The Twelve Grapes of Luck) the Spanish custom of stuffing
one grape into their mouths for every
toll of
the churchbell.
It
is much harder to do that it sounds but worth the attempt for if
you succeed the saying goes that you will have 12 months of prosperity.
Fireworks, champagne and parties into the wee hours are to be expected
here as anywhere on this magical night of the year.
Lastly and before you breathe
a sigh of relief at the end of the silly season and box up the Christmas
tinsel and fake snow, the 5th and 6th of January are the days to
celebrate the Tres Reyes Magos. These are the three wise kings who
took three gifts to the newborn Jesus and having received letters
from kids all over Spain, arrive on the 5th of January and leave
presents for the kids to open on the 6th. It used to be that only
coal was left to those who were not well behaved for the previous
twelve months but today's children are obviously exemplary as this
tradition is no longer observed.
So if you were not one
of the lucky winners of El Gordo you can still look forward to spending
a wonderful Christmas in Tenerife and in fact it has to be said that
there will be few places in the world where you can enjoy real snow
on Christmas Day followed by basking on the beach an hour later.